Mzansi Couture 🧵🇿🇦

I had the chance to interview one of my good friends and also varsity mate. He goes by the name of “Storks”, real name Ntokozo Nkambule. Unfortunately due to the pandemic, him and I did not get a chance to sit down and chat face to face. However, we managed to conduct the interview over the phone and he shared some insight on his life – where he was, where he is now and where he is going.

We chopped it up, spoke about a number of things and touched on everything street culture. What it means to him, what impact it has had on him and what he hopes to get out of it. There is a lot we have in common, but definitely streetwear is number one. This is the conversation I had with Ntokozo, so let us dive into it!

Born and raised in a small township of Tsakane, the south eastern part of Johannesburg. Tsakane, meaning joy or happiness in Tsonga – while Ntokozo means the same thing but in isiZulu (crazy right?!!!). He is from an area densely populated with limited opportunities and motivation. This young man grew up to become the best version of himself, using his talents and creativity to always think outside the box.

A pantsula at heart, a creative, streetwear culture fanatic and a street culture photographer. Indeed, a very versatile and hardworking gent, also a content curator and style curator, like what doesn’t this guy do? Oh, yes…he also recently worked with Converse, yes! Well-known clothing label, Converse Chuck Taylor, on a campaign as well as other talented individuals from across the country.

“Rewriting and Globalizing the Narrative of A Pantsula”

Ntokozo sat in a classroom like everyone else, eats like everyone else and walks the streets of Johannesburg like everyone else – but he definitely doesn’t dress like anybody else. Chatting with “Van Storkovic” as he calls himself on the socials, he tells us his story and how far he has actually come with the streetwear culture, the pantsula subculture. To him, it is way more than the clothes he puts on his back and the brands he represents, it has become a way of life. 

I asked him what the streetwear culture means to him, more specifically the pantsula subculture means to him, and he responded saying, “To me, streetwear culture is a movement of diverse subcultures connected by various elements such as music, art as well as dance” and also that, “It is all about expressing our truer selves through fashion and style, yeah in short that’s streetwear culture for me”. 

Converse, Samson and Dickies are very popular in South Africa. From workwear, sneakers, trousers hats etc. you name it. It's popularity grew due to the streetwear culture and pantsula subculture respectfully, which is home grown in various townships and communities across the country. He went on to tell me that actually, years ago a friend of his from school, introduced him to a store where they sold these name brand sneakers and clothing, “then fast-forward years later, I started buying clothes and shoes just to look good in my kasi (neighborhood), so I can say the love for streetwear started back in grade 8”, he said. 

The streetwear culture represents different things for different people, it is not only about the fashion aspect of it. Dressing up in a particular way, communicates something to people who know fashion (even to those who don't). When I asked Ntokozo what is the one thing he admires about the streetwear culture. He answered, “it has to be identity, the culture specifically the pantsula subculture represents me more than I represent it – actually not more than, as much as I represent it.”

“The dress code alone makes me stand out, everywhere I go people can see that I am a pantsula, and I can also identify others like me by their clothes and behavior”. Various elements fascinated him from a young age, he became fond of the pantsula subculture and the way the  "panstula lifestyle" was represented in his area, in Tsakane. The way they ("ama pantsula") carried themselves, their basic day to day lifestyle, the way they dressed and danced – all that played a role and he said those people represented the kasi so well. 

That inspired him to do something, to be part of the subculture so he can be busy and stay off the streets, because that is often always the case when growing up in the townships. He wanted to do something and have something good to focus on rather than being exposed to drugs, crime, etc.
 “Where I come from is what drives and inspires me, coming from a not so privileged home – most of the things I had to hustle for.” He inspires himself also because no other pantsula from his time and area, has reached the heights he’s reached, like working with Converse. Besides the renowned “Trompies” and famous kwaito artist, Kabelo Mabalane from “TKZee" – those people are his role models.

I asked him what his inner major setbacks are, that hinder his progress, he said self-doubt and lack of disciple – “those things I need to work on.” He then elaborated saying, “Where I’m from it’s easy to lose focus, if you have nothing to stand for – it’s easy to find yourself doing the wrong things like dropping out of school or even worse, crime”. So being part of the pantsula subculture saved him from a lot of harm, instead kept him occupied and exposed him to fashion, music, dance and art, until this day, he still says he is proud to be a pantsula. 

When I asked him, where he sees himself in the next five – he paused and thought about it and then said, “Right now, I am working on building a foundation of where I want to be in the next five years”, he wants to "change the perception people have when they see or think of “pantsulas”. Ntokozo says he hopes to see himself operating a store(s) where all the pantsula merchandise will be sold and supplied. “The aim is to drive the pantsula subculture day by day, rewriting and globalizing the narrative of a pantsula”, and that is a quote he lives by.